Table of Contents: Opal & Gemstone Jewelry

Dedication

Preface

SECTION ONE: CUTTING A CABOCHON

Chapter 1: Introduction: The Basics of Cabochon Cutting

Plan

Shape

Sand and Polish

Cabochon Cutting Rules

Chapter 2: Equipment

What Will You Need?

Saw

Cabbing machine

Supplies

Sometimes Borrowed

Chapter 3: Cabbing Your First Gem

Planning

The Cutting Process

Chapter 4: Cutting Freeform Cabs

Chapter 5: Several Cab Cutting Projects

Moss Agate - Subtle Reshaping

Brazilian Agate - Natural Shape

Lace Agate - Cutting a Precise Oval

Tiger-eye - Orientation

COLOR PLATES 1-17

Oops - Adjusting to Problems

Chrysoprase - Finding a Unique Shape

SECTION TWO: CUTTING OPAL

Chapter 6: Cutting Your First Opal

Part I

Selecting Materials to Cut

Cutting Opal Step-by-Step

Summary

Part II

Cutting an Example Stone

Chapter 7: Orienting the Color

Orientation Techniques

Orientation and Yield

Orientation in Setting the Stone

Chapter 8: To Dome or Not to Dome
Dome and Light

Directionality and Dome
Chapter 9: Sawing Opal

Why Saw?

How to Saw

When to Saw

Chapter 10: Cutting Standard Sized Opals

The Technique

Chapter 11: Cutting Doublets and Triplets

Doublets

COLOR PLATES 18-34

Capped Doublets

Triplets

Chapter 12: Rough Sources

Coober Pedy, Australia

Mintabie, Australia

Lambina, Australia

Lightning Ridge, Ausgtralia

Andamooka, Australia

Queensland, Australia

Mexico

Brazil

Honduras

Virgin Valley, Nevada

Spencer, Idaho

Lousiana Matrix Opal

Ethiopian Opal

Other Locations

Synthetic Opal

Chapter 13: How to Buy Rough Opal

Grades of Opal

Dealing with Dealers

Mail Order Opal

Summary

Chapter 14: The Care and Feeding of Opal

What Causes Wear

Opals Dulled by Wear

SECTION THREE - ADVANCED OPAL CUTTING TECHNIQUES

COLOR PLATES 35-55

Chapter 15: Loving a Gem's Unique Character

Chapter 16: Cutting Black Opal

Dark Seam Opal

Cutting Black Nobbies

Other Blacks

Chapter 17: Cutting Boulder Opal

Cutting Thin Seams

Natural Faced Stones

Boulder Matrix

Chapter 18: Cutting Mexican Opal

Opal without Matrix

Opal in Matrix

Faceting

Chapter 19: Finding the Beauty in Challenging Opals

Sneaking up on the Stone

Multiple Bars of Fire

Multiple Lines on Top

Curving Lines

Thick or Thin

Chapter 20: Finding Imperfections

Finding Pits and Cracks

How Deep Does it Go?

Chapter 21: Advanced Opal Cutting Hints

Seam Opal: Horizontals and Verticals

Cutting a Vertical Seam

Crystal Opal

Matrix Dyeing Instructions

Cutting for Yield

Chapter 22: Treating Cracks and Stabilizing Matrix

The Treatment Process

Treatment Ethics

SECTION FOUR: ADVANCED GEMSTONE CUTTING TECHNIQUES

Chapter 23: Intarsia

Basic Process

A Simple Project

Some Design Ideas

A Freeform Intarsia

Chapter 24: Using Chips

The Chip Jar

Floating Opals

Chip Triplets

SECTION FIVE: SETTING YOUR GEMS

Chapter 25: The Basics of Proper Setting

Commercial Cabochon Settings

Setting your Cabochon

To Glue or Not to Glue

Glue-In Settings

Chapter 26: Lost Wax Design

The Basics of Lost Wax Setting

Wax

Tools

COLOR PLATES 56-92

Chapter 27: Preparing a Basic Setting

Setting Opal for Lasting Beauty

The Basic Setting: Pendant

The Basic Setting: Ring

Chapter 28: Setting Other Cabochons

Chapter 29: Dribble Design Techniques

Design Principles

Design Textures

Chapter 30: Design to Complement Your Gemstone

Chapter 31: Design Projects

A Simple Setting

Moss Agate

Opal Triplet

Agate Triangle

Boulder Opal

Doublet Ring

Chapter 32: More Design Projects

A Chrysoprase Man's Ring

Opal Pendant

Chrysoprase Pendant

Chapter 33: Design Tricks

Prongs

Perfect Purple

Flexible Wax

Side Stone

Hiding Imperfections

Leaves

Leaf Prong

Grapevine

Circles

Bracing

Texture and Polish

Chapter 34: Sources of Design Ideas

Jewelry Designs of Others

Designs from Nature

Your Environment

Doodles

The Gemstone Itself

Chapter 35: Setting Your Gemstone in Your Design

Setting Step-by-Step

Chapter 36: The Best is Yet to Come

Source Directory

Other Publications by Majestic Press, Inc.

Opal & Traditional Birthstones Chart

Index

About the Author